Housekeeping, and a Question

I just wanted to note that I'm going back and cleaning up some of my older entries, which tend to get a lot of hits through Google.  Some have too many hotlinked images, some have incomplete image citations ... I'm also trying to link to images of dressed mannequins rather than use the picture, because of the copyright issue. My entry on the polonaise was full of fashion plates, which I replaced with just a couple and a link to Pinterest - why clutter up the page when I have a very thorough selection of images there?  Now it just states that the polonaise was not the standard fitted gown with the skirts tied up, it has no waist seam, rounded skirts, &c.  Hmm, perhaps I should add to it to explicitly state that there's no evidence the term "skirts à la polonaise" or "polonaised skirts" existed.

ETA: Here's what I've added, what do you think?

What the fitted gowns with skirts tied up with rings and tapes were called is somewhat mysterious.  A French fashion plate depicting this can be seen here; the artist or caption-writer used the adjective "rétroussée" ("tied up", "tucked up", ) to describe what they specifically identify as an anglaise.  Thus far, I've been unable to find the phrases "skirts à la polonaise" or "polonaised skirts" at all during the period.  However, in the poem "The Ladies Head-Dress", quoted in The Cut of Women's Clothes and The Quaker, "Chloe" is described as having "her gown be tuck'd up to the hip on each side".  It seems most likely that the French and the English both described the style with ordinary language, rather than adapting the term "polonaise" - which makes sense, as their polonaise gown was identified more by the cut than by the draping.

ETA2: And a question.  I have been sewing 5/16" channels in my stays, to fit one 1/4" reed in each.  However, I realized recently that 3/16" reed exists.  Do you think two 3/16" reeds would fit snugly in a 5/16" channel?  It seems like one reed takes 1/16" ease out of the channel, so logically, two ought to take 1/8" ... but I wanted to see if anyone had experience with that before I ordered reed.

Comments

  1. I wouldn't substitute two reeds for the one. It would give entirely different "action" (for lack of a better word, or for I can't think of the right word) in your stay channels. And instead of nicely staying (HA) next to one another, they'd probably end up on top of one another.

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    1. They're meant to be on top of each other, though, to be less flexible.

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  2. Hi,
    I am actually having the same issue. I'll be able to tell you the answer in a few hours. I have the 3/16 reed and sewed 1/4 inch channels intending to put 2 pieces in each (flat sides together). I'm about to go put the boning in now. I'll let you know how it fits...if it's good, or if it could use the extra 16th as in yours.
    Oh, I'm Jess from Ohio by the way. =)

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    1. What fortunate timing! I would definitely be grateful to hear about your results.

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  3. Fortunate timing- Ha ha! Yes, I thought so. That's why I just had to comment =)

    Well, the results are in. Your 5/16 boning channels will be PERFECT for using 2 pieces of 3/16 reed back to back. My 1/4 inch channels felt a little too loose for 1 piece, but I really had to work to get the 2nd piece in (but blistered thumbs & all they're in there!) So that extra 16th should be just right. It also made a world of difference in the strength of them when I added the 2nd piece..(incase you were wondering) =)

    Lucky for me I only sewed the channels on 1 pannel and boned it to test the size first. I'll be making the rest of mine 5/16 too now! Crisis Averted!

    Hope this helps! Looking forward to hearing how they turn out!

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    1. Thank you SO MUCH! I've just ordered my reed now, as I'm going to finish sewing the channels today. I'm sorry for your blistered thumbs, but it's such a good thing you only did one piece.

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  4. I'm (as usual) late to the party, but I used 5/16 channels for my stays and doubled the reed successfully as well. A few of my channels were on the narrow side, and the second piece of reed didn't make it in. Double is better, for sure.
    And kudos on the housekeeping!

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    1. There definitely are a few channels that ended up 1/4" on mine. D: Thanks for your input, though - even if it's later than Jess, it's still good to have double confirmation!

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