Galerie des Modes, 15e Cahier, 2e Figure

Young Lady dressed in the Austrasian style,* sleeves in sabot cuffs called à l'Isabelle, with a Peruvian-style vest, over which passes a bandolier belt.  This Costume was born in 1778; it is called the Jeanne D'Arc outfit. (1778)

 Jeanne D'Arc outfit.  It would often be rather difficult to justify the names given to certain outfits, and in this case one can [arrange?] the outfit it refers to.  Jeanne D'Arc, better known under the name "Maid of Orleans", wore a man's clothing, which then consisted of a tunic or very short gown, with a hood, braies or trousers, shoes that lace, hair in a round cut above the ear: clothing which certainly has no similarity with that of the Figure.

Anyway, this Figure is dressed in a gown called à l'Austrasienne; it is a type of polonaise that is very open in the front and which is thrown entirely to the back, where it is held very high; under this gown is a vest à la peruvienne, surmounted by a contentement matching the bows on the sabot cuffs.  The trim winds around the collar in the shape of a demi-medicis: the whole is cut by a ribbon placed like a baldric; very full volant, trimmed at the top and bottom with plain ribbons like the baldric.

Medium crest cap, trimmed with flowers, serving to crown a racine droite hairstyle in installments; above it, a brush, and the favori bent in front of the ear.

* Austrasia was the north-eastern part of the Merovingian Frankish kingdom, considered the homeland of the Franks.


Comments

  1. To add a bit of history : around this time, there was a very strong "vogue" for the recent idea (cf the book by Boulainvilliers) that the Franks were the ancestors of the french aristocracy, and the far more barbarian Gaulois, were those of the Tiers État. So this dress might have a bit of a (slight) political and social (and racialist) meaning to it.

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    1. Ooh, thank you for this background info! Intriguing.

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