The young Eglé crying over the absence of her lover: she is dressed in a robe à la Turque* with gauze sleeves which are rétroussée with ribbons, she is coiffed en cheveux with poppies.
1. The Hat which crowns the whole is of gauze and relieved by laurels, called à la Victoire.** 2. Hat à la Calprenede.† 3. Pouf à l'Oriflame.‡(1786)
Le Magasin des Modes, July 15, 1786
* It's very interesting that there's nothing much to tie this to the turque as it was originally conceptualized in the 1770s. I speculate that perhaps the term came to mean what we now call a "zone front".
** As far as I can tell, no specific victory was being celebrated. The name is simply due to the laurels.
† Probably a reference to Gauthier de Costes, seigneur de la Calprenède (ca. 1610-1663). The Van Dycking and plumes are often used as references to the seventeenth century.
‡ It was difficult to find the meaning of "Oriflame" as the term is now the name of a cosmetics company, but the Oriflamme was the red medieval banner of St. Denis.