Grand Robe de Cour or of the new etiquette.
Description of gowns furnished by Rose Bertin, modiste to the Queen, for the Countess Gustave de Sparre:
"1787, 12 September. - The furnishing and trimming of a grand presentation dress of black fleuret,* the petticoat covered with an embroidered, spangled, bronzed crêpe with very rich sequins, the petticoat bordered with a fringe of tassels in branched-work and sequins, the head of black sequins in festoons, a drapery on the right and on the left of sequined crêpe, edged with the same fringe as on the bottom of the petticoat, ended with beautiful, shining black tassels and attached with sequins, the bottom of the gown of black-spangled crêpe, trimmed with a stomacher en barrière of black sequins and black stone buttons, the veins and epaulettes matching ... 3,000 livres
"4 bows for the bottom of the gown in black-spangled crêpe at 9 l ... 36 -
"A pair of bouillonné bracelets in the same black-spangled crêpe ... 30 -
"A palatine of crêpe hemmed with two rows of pleats ... 18 -
"A second black palatine ... 18 -
"A pair of grand corps sleeves with six rows of hemmed crêpe ... 48 -
"A matching collerette ... 10 -
"A pair of lappets of black crêpe and a little velvet ... 12 -
"A bouquet of beautiful roses of all sizes ... 72 -"
Dossiers Bertin (Doucet Library)
* Filoselle, a type of heavier silk; filoselle is now mainly used as embroidery floss.