Galerie des Modes, 3e Cahier de Grandes Robes d'Etiquette, 5e Figure
Robe de Cour with its hoop, trimmed as Jacob's Ladder.
"Court dress requires that women, on the presentation days, have uncovered shoulders. This was formerly a handsome spectacle; it has since changed. Ambition nourished women's embonpoint and seemed to augment their youthfulness. Today one would say that this same ambition desiccates them and makes them thinner: the attractions of the court seem to have removed from them the rounded attractions which distinguished their predecessors as is attested in their portraits; but it has been decided, for the last thirty years, that the evidence of full health will be left to the bourgeoise, and that an exhausted or half-dead woman will be offered instead."