This outfit is coming together

So, I still need to make a stomacher and a cap, but at last the jacket is finished enough that I can put it on with everything else and see how it fits.  I won't be wearing it this weekend at Fort Ticonderoga, but the Old Stone Fort Museum in Schoharie is having a re-enactment weekend, and they told me that I could sign in as a volunteer and even get in free!

Not bad!  The petticoat was a more vibrant blue in my imagination, and I thought it would look garish.  Even the fabric of the jacket isn't bothering me as much.  I think two petticoats are giving me just the right amount of skirt bulk.  (Lack of skirt bulk is something that always niggles at me when I look at otherwise perfect outfits.)  But.  The neckline, what is going on with the neckline?

As you can see, it's very ... wavy.  To be honest, I'm not quite sure what to do.  I'll try it on with Mom soon, so she can see and give her opinion.  Fortunately, there's that riding jacket with a dart in the front edges that means I might be able to adjust it that way.  Hopefully something like that?  Any ideas?

Guess I could have cropped that one a little more!  But the back looks not terrible.

I firmly believe that there is a wave in the long mirror in the middle of my torso, so I went to my squalorous bedroom to get a different view of the jacket.  Then I caught one of the cuffs on the doorknob while leaving, so not only do I need to take off the cuffs and repleat them, I also have to redo one of their seams.

Taking off the layers.  And smiling!

In my underpetticoat and pocket.  I actually made the underpetticoat for a Tudor outfit, but  it works pretty well here (esp. as the blue one has an open weave and is a bit see-through).  The pocket actually has a little embroidery on it, it's just washed out by the sun.

Oh, face.  After I took off the underpetticoat I realized I could tighten the stays a bit more, so I did so and then took a picture.  In general, they're maybe a little too big, and the waist might be a little too low compared to mine - the back is laced completely closed and I feel like I could stand more tightening.

I'm not very happy with the lacing on the jacket.  In PoF it laces around buttons, but I didn't really get that so I made eyelets to lace through; since the buttons were evenly spaced for ladder lacing, I spaced the eyelets the same way, and uh.  It makes the jacket cockeyed.  I don't even know.  I'm thinking I might possibly try just pinning it after I do the stomacher.


  1. The jacket is lovely! I love the fabric. And the blue petticoat is great!

  2. Thank you, both of you! I've been worrying so much that the fabrics are terrible and therefore I've been wasting my time sewing on them that it's just a relief to look at the pictures and go, "huh. Not terrible." And to know that other people also do not think it's terrible.

  3. Pinning works! I have the same problem with my chintz jacket pulling too much with the strings, so I added the stomacher and don't pull so much on the strings anymore. I can't imagine why the neckline got wonky. How did you lay it on the grainline? It is wonky as if it is stretched from having been laid on the bias and stretched too much over the course of time with all the picking up and putting down of stitching. I'm not saying that's what happened, just that's bizarre and what it looks like! How disappointing. Well I have a couple of gaps in my latest gown and my daughter has some in hers and the milliner told me to just take in tucks here and there. The beauty of my gown design is that I can cover over those tucks with my trim. But she didn't act appalled at the need for her it was a practical thing to do. So instead of worrying about perfection, as in no piecing or tucking, etc is needed, I'd make the fixes. The close fit seems to take paramount importance over the need for an occasional tuck here and there. But I am super curious as to the stability of that fabric. Anyway a few tucks and the stomacher pinned in place and you'll be good to go!
    Oh, about colonial Virginia anyway they were the fashion! Check all the color combinations of jackets and petticoats on my CW milliner page...oh wait that's on my garden blog. I don't know about New Yorker's opinion of color...but check extant regional paintings and garments as I'm sure you know! ;)
    Have fun being 18th century at your event!

  4. You know, the more I think about it...I'm thinking that you quite likely properly placed the front of the jacket on the grainline...but then that makes the neckline have a bit of bias. I think that bias got stretched over the course of time. I *think* that is what happened. One has to treat bias edges with kid gloves to prevent that from happening. Just take in tucks and enjoy! =)

  5. After going to Fort Ti today and seeing a jacket (or caraco, can't remember) at Silly Sisters that decoratively cross-laced up the front, I'm thinking of putting in a few more eyelets on either side and seeing how that works - above, it's ladderly-spiral laced. If it doesn't, then - pins!

    It doesn't seem to have stretched much right on the neckline there, when I look at it. So bizarre! I think my edge is a bit wobbly, which is making it look like it's flopping around more than it is. Thank you for the tuck encouragement! I might try to put them in behind the shoulders.

  6. I think a drawstring in the neckline might be a good idea. They were very common in period and the adjustability it offers would definitely come in handy if you ever change your stays. Unless you think there is so much fullness that needs to be controlled that a drawstring would cause massive wrinkles... However I don't think that's the case from the pictures. The great thing about drawstrings is that you can distribute the fullness all around to help disguise it. By the way I love the shape your stays give you! You look fabulous! I'm definitely going for a similar look with the pair that I'm (slowly) working on.

  7. Thank you for the advice! I think this fabric is a little too heavy for a drawstring, though. I've taken a few tucks in it, but I'll try to remember drawstrings next time I have a fit problem with a more forgiving material.

    And thanks for the compliment! There are some things I'll do differently next time I make stays (the tabs, mainly), but I'm pretty satisfied overall.


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