Cabinet des Modes, 23e Cahier, 3e Figure

October 15, 1786


"OUR fathers transmitted to us, through familiarity with their habits, their coiffures, their offensive and defensive ARMS, and other ornaments that they loved during their lives: we would well know how to recognize this sort of benefaction, by giving the same to our descendants." If the illustrious Philosopher, Labruyère, whose approval we have reported on several times, and which we will probably report again, made this discourse, and printed it in his time, there is the greatest injustice on the part of our sour Censors, to treat our Work as futile and foolish.

This Plate represents an Epée-guard in gold. The coquille is decorated with four medallions of blue enamel, two above and two below, whose middles are in a little circle in another gold-colored enamel, and whose circumference is trimmed with two rows of pearls. The coquille is further decorated, by the medallions, with rosettes in green gold. The pommel and circle of the Guard are equally decorated with medallions and matching rosettes. The whole Guard is cut in diamond facets, overall where there are no medallions surrounded with pearls.

This Epée is drawn from the shop of Signore Granché, where the following objects are found:
Watch chains, in gold, with beads, cut in facets, in steel, and several Jewels of the same work.

Silver épées, inlaid with gold, with enamel medallions.

Idem, in steel, with broken arms, with tassels, imitating a dragon. The blade can be divided.

 New Swordbelts and steel beads, on ribbon.

Silver buckles, mixed with gold and steel, making the greatest effect, and several other new models in gold and silver sequins, folded back, imitating embroidery.

Arrows, Daggers, Epées, Keys in gold, enameled, to fasten Ladies' kerchiefs.

Watch cords, Necklaces, Bracelets in coral and steel.

Idem, in American seeds, and pearls, and others in enameled beads of diverse colors.

M. Granché holds simple Salt cellars, Bouts de table, Mustard pots, Compote dishes, in the same taste as the Oil pot announced in the Eighth number.

Large Rings à l'enfantement, in stones engraved à talisman, and others imitating onyx.
Though we will only be in autumn, ah! good God, how ugly it is in our climate! Everyone knows that in this season, from All Saint's Day, winter coats, muffs, pelisses, furs, velvets, satins, plushes, every unhappy result which must defend you from rains, winds, storms, snows, frost and ice; we must notify our Subscribers of garments which promise to reign, and which at present flaunt their luxurious triumph. For dress suits, we only see, for men, puce rateen, with a large white button, with stones; or dark green or puce satin, embroidered.

For women, we only see dark green, or violet, or plain steel grey satin.

For undress suits for men, there is only puce or black cloth, from which you remove all the piping.

For women, only cloth, that they wear in redingotes and matching petticoats, in long jackets and matching petticoats. See, for the colors, the note in the twenty-first Issue.

Under the déshabillés, men will wear satin gilets, or embroidered little velvet.

The prettiest gilets are decorated with embroidery representing, on some, on each buttonhole, a lion, a tiger, or another animal; on others, on the surface, large flowers, trees, which extend their branches; on others, especially on the pockets, thatched houses, hamlets, towns; on still others, wheat ears, sprigs, from which some grains are detached, and fall on the side.

Many gilets are of raz velvet, with wide plush stripes, of different colors, and wear on each buttonhole a rather long, falling fringe.

Many others are of white satin, embroidered in gold, and wear also, on each buttonhole, fringe, or even gold tassels, falling.

All our Subscribers know best to send, to have these gilets, or others of the best taste, only to M. JUBIN, Merchant of Silk stuff, at the Palais Royal, under arcades 1 and 2, at the three Mandarins, near the Théâtre des Variétés. He is known for his exact probity, and the extreme fairness of his prices, by which he moderates his gains more than any other Merchant. It is praise that we owe him. He will make all the furnishings and all the dispatches that will be sent to him in silk stuff, in painted and white linen, in mourning stuff, in coat velvet, etc.